Key takeaways from the article:

• The EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles features six key actions aimed at eco-design standards and waste reduction.
• These actions are being enforced through a series of regulations that will affect industry businesses.

Between 2000 and 2015, worldwide textile manufacturing nearly doubled. This growth is set to continue, with garment and footwear consumption expected to rise by 63% by 2030, increasing from 62 million to 102 million tonnes. [1]
In response, the “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles”, adopted by the European Commission in 2022 as part of the European Green Deal and the Circular Economy Action Plan, aims to regulate the production and consumption of textiles. This will significantly impact businesses in the industry, but how exactly? Let’s explore the Strategy and its key actions to find out.

The Strategy, in a nutshell

Clothing accounts for the majority of textile usage in Europe [2], and the new business culture based on low costs, short lifespans, and low value promotes the destructive approach of overproduction and overconsumption, resulting in the well-known phenomenon of fast fashion. The “EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles” seeks to revolutionize the industry by 2030, making it more sustainable, equitable, and competitive. Here are six crucial actions to achieve these goals that you should definitely be aware of: 

• Setting design requirements for textiles.
• Preventing the destruction of unsold or returned textiles.
• Tackling microplastic pollution.
• Requiring information and a Digital Product Passport.
• Addressing greenwashing.
• Introducing harmonised Extended Producer Responsibility rules.

Action n. 1: Setting design requirements for textiles 

To foster a circular economy, products must be designed for reuse, as outlined in the Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation.

About its implementation. Entered into force on the 18th of July, 2024, the ESPR became a cornerstone of the Textiles Strategy, introducing a new approach to product manufacturing that emphasizes creating with reuse in mind. [3]

Its impact on businesses. According to the Regulation, physical goods should be more energy-efficient, minimize dangerous substances, increase recycled content, provide clearer and simpler sustainability information, and enhance durability, usability, upgradability, and reparability. [4]

Action n. 2: Preventing the destruction of unsold or returned textiles

It is estimated that 4-9% of all textile items on the market are discarded before they are ever used for their intended purpose. [5]

About its implementation. By 2026, the Ecodesign Regulation will impose restrictions on the destruction of unsold textiles across the EU. [6]

Its impact on businesses. The Regulation requires medium and large companies across all product sectors to annually disclose information on their websites, including the quantity and weight of discarded products and the reasons for their disposal. [7]

Action n. 3: Tackling microplastic pollution

Each year, the ecosystem receives the equivalent of 200 to 600 Olympic-sized swimming pools worth of microplastics. [8]

About its implementation. With the “Ecodesign for Sustainable Product Regulation” and other initiatives like the “Zero Pollution Action Plan,” the EU aims to establish new standards for microplastic emissions. The goal is to reduce their release by 30% by 2030 while analyzing every stage of a product’s lifecycle to assess and mitigate its effects. [9]

Its impact on businesses. This will lead to stricter regulations, the adoption of innovative products to prevent their emission, and a shift towards using more durable materials.

To learn more about microplastics and their environmental impact, read here.

Action n. 4: Requiring information and a Digital Product Passport

Accessing clear and accurate information is becoming increasingly challenging. When discussing product lifecycles and sustainability criteria, consumers often encounter misleading claims and incomplete statements. 

About its implementation. Transparency is one of the EU’s key principles, driven by two main initiatives for this sector: the amendment of the “Textile Labeling Regulation” to include sustainability and circularity information on labels and the implementation of a Digital Product Passport. [10]

Its impact on businesses. Fashion and textile brands will be required to include these passports (i.e., via QR codes) to capture comprehensive details about the entire value chain, including materials, origin, and disposal recommendations. [11]

Action n. 5: Addressing greenwashing 

A recent review of sustainability claims in the textile, garment, and footwear industries found that up to 39% of such promises may be inaccurate or fraudulent. [12] Transparency initiatives, such as the Digital Product Passport and the new Labeling Regulation can only be effective if accompanied by robust actions against deceptive information and misleading claims.

About its implementation. In March 2023, the Commission adopted a proposal for a Directive on “Green Claims”. This proposal builds upon and operationalizes an earlier Directive aimed at empowering consumers in the green transition. [13]

Its impact on businesses. Under this directive, all “green” claims – such as reduced carbon footprint – must be backed by third-party verification and scientific evidence. Clear communication rules will also be enforced, banning aggregate scoring and unauthorized labeling schemes. [14]

Action n. 6: Introducing harmonised Extended Producer Responsibility rules

Achieving circularity requires a united effort across the entire value chain to reduce waste and implement new management and disposal practices. 

About its implementation. The  “Extended Producer Responsibility Regulation” (EPR) proposed by the Commission aims to hold producers accountable for the entire lifecycle of textile products. By January 1, 2025, all EU Member States will be required to implement mandatory and harmonized EPR schemes for textiles. [15]

Its impact on businesses. Producers will cover the costs of waste management, which will also give them incentives to reduce excess and enhance product circularity. Their contributions will be adjusted based on the environmental performance of textiles, a principle known as “eco-modulation”. [16]

Conclusion

If you’re still finding your way through this Strategy and looking to bring some order, keep an eye out for our upcoming webinar on the EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles.

[1]“Communication – EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles”, available at: https://environment.ec.europa.eu/publications/textiles-strategy_en
[2]“Communication – EU Strategy for Sustainable and Circular Textiles”, available at: https://environment.ec.europa.eu/publications/textiles-strategy_en [3] “Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation”, available at: https://commission.europa.eu/energy-climate-change-environment/standards-tools-and-labels/products-labelling-rules-and-requirements/sustainable-products/ecodesign-sustainable-products-regulation_en
[4]“Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation”, available at: https://commission.europa.eu/energy-climate-change-environment/standards-tools-and-labels/products-labelling-rules-and-requirements/sustainable-products/ecodesign-sustainable-products-regulation_en
[5]“The destruction of returned textiles”, available at: https://www.eea.europa.eu/publications/the-destruction-of-returned-and#:~:text=From%20the%20available%20data%2C%20it,used%20for%20their%20intended%20purpose.
[6]“Ecodesign: new EU rules to make sustainable products the norm”, available at: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/news/en/press-room/20240419IPR20576/ecodesign-new-eu-rules-to-make-sustainable-products-the-norm
[7]“Ecodesign for Sustainable Products Regulation”, available at: “https://commission.europa.eu/energy-climate-change-environment/standards-tools-and-labels/products-labelling-rules-and-requirements/sustainable-products/ecodesign-sustainable-products-regulation_en
[8]“Microplastics”, available at: https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/plastics/microplastics_en#:~:text=In%20the%20new%20Circular%20Economy,addressing%20unintentional%20releases%20of%20microplastics
[9]“Microplastics”, available at: https://environment.ec.europa.eu/topics/plastics/microplastics_en
[10]“Revision of the textile labelling regulation”, available at: https://www.europarl.europa.eu/legislative-train/theme-a-european-green-deal/file-textile-labeling-regulation
[11]Digital Product Passport”, available at: https://hadea.ec.europa.eu/calls-proposals/digital-product-passport_en
[12]“Greenwashing”, available at: https://commission.europa.eu/live-work-travel-eu/consumer-rights-and-complaints/enforcement-consumer-protection/sweeps_en
[13]“Green Claims Directive”, available at https://www.europarl.europa.eu/thinktank/en/document/EPRS_BRI(2023)753958
[14]“Green Claims Directive”, available at https://www.europarl.europa.eu/thinktank/en/document/EPRS_BRI(2023)753958
[15] “Circular economy for textiles: taking responsibility to reduce, reuse and recycle textile waste and boosting markets for used textiles”, available at: https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/ip_23_3635
[16]“The Extended Producer Responsibility”, available at: https://ec.europa.eu/commission/presscorner/detail/en/ip_23_3635